Saturday 20 October 2012
Day 24 Caral
I had planned that we should visit this at the beginning of the holiday but things were not to be. It was almost fated not to get there as on the second attempt I was not able to make it as I was not well but to day all was well.
We got up on time, found a minibus and arrived at the bus station where we had to pick up a bus that was going to Barranca some 3 hours north of Lima. Supe was our destination to take a collectivo to the archaeological site of Caral. After waiting for 30 mins and the collectivo was not full we decided to pay for the empty seat so we could leave only to be stuck behind the Caral Marathon. The site was 23kms away and the car was overheating and finally stopped with smoke coming out of the dashboard. We quickly left leaving the driver to sort out his problems and start walking. It was not long before we came across a tractor and trailer so hitched a lift which was at least better than walking in the midday sun. After a mile or so a car came by and we jumped vehicles and hitched a lift with the car. The driver was a local hotel owner who was going our way and very generously took us all the way to Caral.
After we walked through the reception centre we had to wait for the guide that we paid for but there was no site visible. After the guide arrived you walk up a slight incline and on top of the incline laid out before you is an impressive array of mounds (still to be excavated) and pyramids. It cavers a larger area and was well worth the trip to see one of the oldest cities in mans civilisation. I do not intend to go over information as this can be found on the internet.
The site, at most excavated pyramids, has information boards in both Spanish and English to explain what the pyramid or area was sued for. Bearing in mind that there was no written language a lot of what is said has to be knowledgeable supposition.
After looking around the site we walked to the near by village (40 mins) to get a collectivo as there are rarely taxis for hire this far away from a town.
The bus journey back to Lima was uneventful.
Friday 12 October 2012
Day 21 and other days
If you have been wondering where I have been during the days not reported it is because we have been looking around the numerous museums in Lima.
Most of the museums we looked at this time round were the military ones that we could not see during my last trip. The main attractions were the submarine Abbtao along with the Navy museum at Callao and the parques dedicated to those that lost their lives in the Army/ Navy / Air Force for their country.
We also took time out to visit the Petroleum museum in the Parque de Leyandes. The park has changed since my last visit some 6 years ago and as much is being refurbished did not have the same impact as before. The petroleum museum was interesting but could have demonstrated how the tri-cone rock bit and drill platform worked. For those that have not seen either they would walk away none the wiser.
Probable the most unusual was the Brain and Neurological Museum with over 300 dissected brains and spinal columns both of healthy and diseased origins. The development of the study has been ongoing since 1942.
For the less squeamish there was the museum at the Plaza de Acho (Bullfight) which showed the costumes of the most famous bullfighters including one where the bullfighter was gored by the bull. Also were the stuffed heads of several of the most famous bulls. It was interesting and like so many countries blood sports are becoming increasingly less acceptable.
The only museum, of those we chose, that we did not get into was the Astronomical Museum at the Observatory as we could get a reply from the phone calls we made.
Wednesday 10 October 2012
Day 19 & 20 Around Huancayo
Sat Day 19
After an early night, after the train ride, we were feeling better having now slept at a lower altitude for our bodies to acclimatise but this still leaves us breathless if we move too quickly.
After a shower it is time fro breakfast at Coqui’s which was recommended by guide books.
We have decide that should go and visit an archaeological site (Huari-Huilca civilisation) at Huari which at the height of its time was the centre of the Huari nation. For ease we took a taxi fro about £3.
We found the site without any problem and whilst walking around the outside wall we found a back entrance, the front being locked. What was striking was the double wall and the fact that the inner wall had, what can only describes as a roof. After walking around taking hotos we left by the front door and went to the attached Museum.
It was a pity that we had not done things the other way round as we learnt that it was a sacred house that the first Huari couple had found water and the 2 trees inside represented the first male and female to find the water and live there from which the rest of the tribe evolved.
It was significant that very little has been found of the civilisation and the few fragments of pottery are on display in the museum. There was a skeleton of a young woman found outside of the walls and looking at her crushed skull and broken pelvisi t is supposed that she was killed in punishment rather than as a sacrifice from the way in which the body was found. As with all Peruvian civilisations they never developed a written language so much is speculation.
Later we return to Huancayo to sit in the main plaza and watch the people go by before finding restaurant for a late lunch.
Sun Day 20
As we went to breakfast at Coqui’s it was evident something was different as all the traffic was being diverted of the road to the square that we had to walk through to get to the restaurant. From what we could see there was going to be some sort of parade so after a hastily eaten meal we returned to the square. There were units of the military, police, children in school uniform, nurses and civilians along with a military band. The dignitaries duly arrived and the Peruvian flag was hoisted as the national anthem was played followed by what looked like the Town flag and then the district flag.
There was a march passed started by the military and police but what was unusual was the school children marching. All the other groups followed and after about 30 minutes it was all over. However, some of the groups performed an activity and one such group a couple danced the local dance in local costume.
Almost on cue out of the corner of my eye I saw a group of people brightly dressed. We wondered over to the other side of the square to find at least 6 groups in various colours. The guys were very elaborately dressed with rings of bells tied to their legs and the girls in very short circular skirts. They were congregating there to demonstrate their local dress before performing their way to the local stadium fro a competition which we would miss as were going of to a Pargue followed by a late lunch and to sit in the square to watch the world go by – again!!
The Parque de la Identidad in which the statues and animals are made of stone. Also it is a popular place for the wedding photographers to bring the bride and groom for photographs.
To morrow we return to Lima.
Tuesday 9 October 2012
Day 18 Depart for Huancayo by Train
Another early start and so we have to get up at 5am to get a taxi to the train station where the train is due to depart at 7am. As we leave the house it is not only still dark but also a very fine rain is falling. As we get to the main road we wave down a taxi – a good start to the day.
At the station
we are about 20th in the queue and it is only 6:15 soon it is our turn to go through security check but it means waiting on the platform until the train is due. There are 2 classes ( Classico and Touristico). It is 7:15 and there is no sign of the train and soon we get the announcement that it will be 40 mins late due to engineering problems. The train runs once a month so may be the driver overslept!!!!!!!!
When the reain does arrive we find our seat. So far everything is different from the last time we travelled this in 2006. The operators are different and it soon became evident that this train was really for the tourist as the speed was so much slower than in 2006. Later we realise the 8 hour journey is going to take 12 hours - may be we should have gone tourist class with its reclining chairs and viewing car!!!!!!!
For some reason we soon become aware that we are changing engines regularly so every one de trains to take photos - at the second stop the train has to be reversed so the engine is turned on a water turn table and because the weight is absorbed by the water it only take 2 men to push the engine around before it moves off to what will now become the front of the train allowing scenic views from the tourist class coaches.
We have climbed a couple of thousand feet and will slowly do so until about 2pm when we reach Galera at 4781 meters (15681 feet) and no oxygen in site as we detrain to take photos the sirochay (?) – altitude sickness hits and you start to get a headache and breathing becomes laboured. Luckily there is a nurse on hand for those that need medical assistance. The air breathed in contains the same percentage of oxygen as at lower altitudes but the air pressure falls, (approx 696mb according to my watch) meaning each breath contains fewer oxygen molecules, at Lima it was 1012mb. After the alloted time we clamber aboard and it beomes evident by the number being sick that many have surcomed with one tourist have to be taken off the train by ambulance at the next major town
To get here we have crossed numerous bridges, assed throught numeros tunnels and traversed 8 switchbacks. From here on in it is down hill and in 5 hours time we are due in at Huancayo. The scenery is ever changing, and the rock formations and colours are amazaing showing the violent way in which the Andes were fromed by the pacific subduction plate colliding with the South American plate.
The most notable changes from the previous journey is the mountains have given way to more mining settlements and the abundance of electricity pylons. That is progress and as Peru discovers its mineral riches in the Andes so the human footprint will make it mark – a tragedy as far as I am concerned but also admiratiojn that people are prepared to move to these high altitudes to work. It was difficult enough detraing and walking around Galera station. I could go on but the poijnt has been made. As we descend to La Oroya the effects of the altitude sickness subsides. In 2 more hours we wil arrivew at Huancayo and a welcome bed at the hotel we stayed at last time.
Some of the images dispalyed were also taken on the return journey.
Traditional village
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